I just read Calvin Trillin's "Feeding a Yen." I've already seen some of his essays in the New Yorker; my friend, Emily, really liked the article on Shopsin's ("Don't Mention It"). If I could be invisible, I'd want to go to the new Shopsin's and meet Kenny, but as a non-local-non-invisible, I am justly afraid. My favorite in the book was the essay on red and white wine and "the Test." Like Trillin, I am heavily influenced by wine bottle labels, so it was fun to watch wine experts squirm for a bit, though they have their day in the end. I'd like to say Trillin reminds me of Steingarten because I read Steingarten before I read Trillin, but I think it should be the other way around.